The Internet changed all of that.
Now, with the Internet, anyone who wants to be a photographer can get a camera and most likely find a decent model if the photographer is willing to give references and pay a price. A good model will shoot with a new photographer if the photographer is willing to play by the model's rules. For example, I will work with new or unknown photographers, but only if they satisfy my prerequisites which are as follows:
1. Provide references
2. Be willing to send me a copy of their drivers license so I have their full
name and address
3. Be willing to sign a contract saying I have the right to reject any bad pictures
and prevent those images from being published without my permission
4. Pay my requested rate
5. Allow me to bring a chaperone to the photo shoot
Now, granted, I have been around for a while and, therefore, I can make these demands and usually the photographer will meet them, but some of the best photographers I have worked with are the ones I took a risk with and, fortunately, our relationship made us both grow. I would push them and they, as they grew, would push me.
As a new or established model, you should be aware that there is now a sea of so-called new or amateur or semi-professional photographers. Models all have to start somewhere and so do photographers. Most of them are truly good people who want to be good photographers. There is nothing wrong with working with them although the reality is that there are those who use the camera as a pretext and have no interest in anything except trying to get a model naked or in bed.
So, now how do you tell the difference? Well, it is simple: people who are in the business to do real photography work are going to act and want to be seen as professionals. Here are some things to ask which will help you to weed the good from the bad, the ones who want to shoot real pictures from the ones who just want to try to get you within their reach for other reasons. Essentially, do what I do:
1. Ask for references
2. Ask for a copy of there drivers license (if they have nothing to hide and
no ulterior motives, this shouldn't be a problem for them)
3. ask to have a chaperone who can be at the location even if he or she is not
in the actual room for the photo shoot
4. ask in advance what they want to shoot
5. ask in advance how long they want to shoot
6. ask what they intend on doing with the pictures once the shoot is completed
Now, if they respond negatively to any of those questions, this should tell you that something is wrong, but, even if they answer everything to your satisfaction, you still should not assume it is all okay. Hope for the best, but be ready if it goes astray.
Okay, let's assume the photographer answers all of your questions appropriately, now what? Well, working with amateurs is different from when you work with established professional photographers and you are usually the leader. So, when you go to the shoot, bring ideas with you and think about what you want to shoot. Discuss your ideas with the photographer before you go or just take a bunch of clothing, your makeup and your props with you. Most amateurs won't have the right clothing and/or makeup, so you need to make sure you have it and/or you get a makeup artist and stylist. Most amateurs won't invest in a makeup artist or stylist though until they feel more confident with their work.
Some people condemn models for working with semi professionals, but while I was in Milan, the agencies would always stop and go nuts over the images in my book that had been taken by semi professionals or friends who shot me for fun. Why? Because when you shoot with photographers who are shooting just to shoot and get experience, you, the model, have much more room to be creative. This is a definite advantage to shooting with new, semi professional and/or even amateur photographers; they simply aren't rigid and are usually more willing to try crazy, creative things which, more often than not, makes the shoot fun.
In fact, to this day, I will often shoot with photographers who do it for fun or for a hobby and I love those shoots because I can create and have the freedom I enjoy to make something offbeat, to do something more artistic or strange, and get paid for doing it. In addition, most of the time, the photographer will want me to use the images on my website so others can see them and learn who took them. One hand washes the other.
When shooting a real/serious job, I am only a mannequin who follows directions. In other words, I am nothing more than a piece of a puzzle that someone else is putting together. However, when working with someone who is just doing a shoot for fun, not only am I a model, but I can be an artist. Now, I am known for pushing photographers and teaching them what I can based on my years in front of a camera. Plus, I also shoot models as well. So, I know what works and what doesn't. This makes it a little easier for me to take on the role of model but also to act as a fellow artist.
I still shoot with new photographers and I enjoy working with them because I also like helping people and being a part of someone's inspiration. I can tell the difference though between someone who wants to create and someone who just wants to get me in a room for other purposes. I avoid those who have no real desire to create and you should too because it isn't healthy, it isn't good for your soul or your mind, and it may not be safe.
As a model, you need to also realize that you are a large part of the picture. If you show up with no ideas, no clothing and no makeup, you will end up with very mediocre or poor images and, quite possibly, no repeat work. I have always had repeat work and I attribute this to the fact that I go to photo shoots and I bring things with me. I bring ideas; I bring clothing; I bring everything because, to me, every image has the potential to be a piece of art. Every image will last forever. Every Image is a reflection of me.
You, being the model, can improve any shoot by bringing more than just your body and face to the table. Bring some life! Let the photographer see who you are, who you want to be, what you can do. Remember, shooting and making pictures is art and you should treat it that way. Also, you can learn so much by working with amateur photographers. If you choose to learn, each image can be another side of you.
I try to make it a game. I never wanted to look the same in any set of pictures so I am always changing, always becoming a new image or a new character. Working with lots of semi professionals or amateur photographers, I got to paint and still do. When I want to make images, I call those who I know are hungry, who care, who want me in front of a camera. I work with those who want to do it right.
Many commercial gigs pay a lot, but, in all reality, shooting a thousand pictures in pajamas is boring after the first two hundred. Shooting all night in the middle of the desert, however, is adventurous and fun. Often, I went for the more fun and less paying artistic jobs than trying to do ads for toothpaste, but that was because, personally, I am an artist as well as a model. So, being an art model or working with photographers instead of just for them, made me very happy and continues to make me happy when I work with them.
It has also earned me a great deal of respect from them. My success was do to the fact that I gave as a model and was willing to do more than just stand there and act pretty. I was willing to freeze in the bitter cold to get that perfect shot. I was willing to lay in the middle of the highway at three a.m. after twelve long hours of shooting. I was willing to get dirty and wet and covered in water to climb in the middle of a beautiful grove. I was willing to climb to the top of the hill and get cuts on my feet and not be so glamorous. I was willing to spend hours learning how to do my own makeup and hair, my own styling, my own lighting. I also was willing to share all I knew with them.
My success was not based strictly on looks, but on work and dedication and treating modeling like an art. I continue to and will continue to treat it like art because every image to me is a work of art and if I am working with a new photographer, I will do all I can to make sure we make something beautiful regardless of the format. If it is fashion, glamour, fetish, art, it doesn't matter to me. All that matters is one thing -- making a beautiful and powerful image.
Now I have made thousands of images and I have learned that I had to give in order to create beautiful powerful images. It is just as much the model's responsibility as the photographer's to make the perfect picture. A photographer only does half the work; you, the model do the other half. I hear so many models complaining about not working, but, when they do work, they sit there and say things like, "So, what do you want me to do?"
Most photographers hate that. Just like they hate hearing, "So, um, can you show me how to pose." Your responsibility as a model is to know how to pose, how to move, how to transform from innocent to sex goddess, from bad girl to Miss All-American. A good model is an actress and can become anyone and anything.
Now, working with amateurs and semi professionals is also a wonderful way to develop and continue to learn about yourself as a model. Treat it that way. Share your ideas with them, use them, let them use you, work together.
Finally, on a more serious note, you must remember that there are those out there who pose as photographers and who only want to take advantage of you. After you have screened the photographer as I outlined earlier and decided to go to the photo shoot, follow the tips I am about to offer, take them seriously, and hopefully they will keep you out of trouble:
1. always have a cell phone
with you
2. always give someone the name and phone number of the person shooting you
and the address of the shoot location
3. always have your own transportation or bring enough cash with to call a cab
or car service
5. never do drugs or drink with the photographer unless you really know him
Now, I am friends with many of the photographers I work with and I will go to have dinner, lunch and so on with them. I don't see any problem in this as long as you have your phone and enough money to get home or out of any situation that may develop. Most of the photographers I know and work with are amazing, wonderful people so I don't worry, but everyone is different and if you feel strange, follow your instincts and remove yourself from the situation.
Speaking of money, let's go over that real quickly. I have found most photographers pay between $50 and $150 per hour or $300 to $800 per day, depending on the project and your level of experience as a model. You need to discuss your fee and come to an agreement before you shoot. Make sure there is a record of the agreement. Personally, I often work out all releases and contracts prior to shoots. As I said, all of these details need to be discussed in advance. Most photographers understand and know that if they try to avoid paying a model for her work, it will kill their reputation. Similarly, most models know that if they lie and say they are 34-24-34 and show up and are 45-33-44, it will injure their reputation as well. The good news is that in seven years, I have only had one or two misunderstandings over fees which I ultimately worked out. And I learned -- when you discuss money, you need to make sure you figure it out before you get there.
Now, I work with many photographers and if I believe someone is really talented, but broke, I will usually work something out. For example, I might negotiate that I have full rights to the photos or he pays me half the usual fee, but we shoot what I want to shoot. You need to be flexible. You also need to understand that shooting for test is good for your book. As a new model, you need to shoot as often as possible. I am at the point where I will work with new or semi professional photographers sometimes, but I have a balance between them and amateurs as well as commercial work.
As usual, I could go on and on about modeling, but I think this was a good way to start. More soon.